The alpine butterfly is a midline knot that can bear heavy loads. “It enables you to fix a loop anywhere along a line without using the ends of the rope,” Hopkins says. With roots in mountain ...

The Mule Knot (a.k.a releasable knot) is ideal to lock off the rope on the belay plate. There are many occasions in climbing when, belaying from the harness using a device which does not self-arrest ...