Born in 1900s, dai pai dongs have fed Hong Kong for decades at street level and inside gritty food stalls across the city.

And I have to say, save for one unfortunate dinner that included fresh sea urchin ... and bao to noodles and desserts, along with “tips and tricks” from a Hong Kong kitchen.

As I discovered when I visited Hong Kong last fall, swoon-worthy food comes in many forms at different price points. Cheap eats such as noodle dishes and simple but perfectly roasted meats abound.

Cantonese fare — and its cousin Hong Kong fare — still predominate ... Soups, dumplings, rice rolls, noodles, stir-fries, and fresh whole steamed fish scattered with ginger and green onions ...