The SL 72 may not be as big as the Samba but it’s not for a lack of trying. Last year, the old-school Adidas sneaker nearly topped the Lyst Index, a quarterly roundup of the hottest items in fashion.

Adidas neo was facing an uphill struggle in China, thanks to fierce competition from local players promoting pride in China-born brands, and decreasing relevance with the younger generation. Coupled ...